architecture

LAST FROM A LOST ERA

Jeff Elliott Leave a comment

It’s the “last building” many times over, including being one of the last buildings you would ever think was notable. It was the last work in the North Bay of a great architect, and likely one of his last completed designs. It is the last remaining grand lodge hall in Santa Rosa, a survivor from a time when anyone downtown was only a few steps away from the imposing home of Elks or Eagles or other. It is the last building tied to Santa Rosa’s culture during the early Twentieth Century, when most everyone flocked to weekend dances and big parties. It is still there at 404 Mendocino Avenue, and its doors opened on February 25, 1909.

William H. Willcox was an esteemed architect (introduced here) who created quite a storm in the months before the 1906 earthquake. He presented a vision where Santa Rosa might leapfrog San Jose and other up-and-coming Bay Area communities and become a showcase for modern urban development. Santa Rosa Creek was to be transformed into a waterfront park that would be the centerpiece of an expanded downtown that included a convention auditorium large enough to host statewide and even national events. Investors lined up and he was only weeks (days?) away from having enough funding to break ground for the big pavilion when the quake struck. Money immediately dried up as the bankers and speculators concentrated on rebuilding their downtown holdings. The earthquake and fires not only took 77 lives, but also killed off Santa Rosa’s brightest possible future.

He served as Santa Rosa’s building inspector immediately after the quake, a time when a dozen or so architects in San Francisco and Berkeley were winning contracts to design the town’s new hotels and office buildings. As far is known, Willcox received none of this work (although one building appeared to rip off his convention hall design). It’s possible he had jobs in San Francisco, or was too busy because so much on-site supervision was required of him to enlarge and modernize Hood Mansion at Los Guilicos, which was completed in 1908.

Willcox appeared destined to leave no legacy in Santa Rosa at all, so it was surprising to find in the 1909 newspapers that one of his pre-quake designs was actually built and about to open. The building was the lodge hall for the Native Sons of the Golden West (NSGW, to its friends).


Construction of the building apparently began in late 1907, per the medallion on the wall. It could have started much sooner, had the fraternal society not welcomed Santa Rosa to use their vacant lot as the temporary site of a shantytown for city hall and the rest of the civic center in the sixteen months after the quake. During this time gap Willcox modified the design of the building in several ways, and we’re lucky to have a copy of his original drawing as well as his revision.

All versions of the front face – including what was actually built – were equal parts California Mission Revival Style and Romanesque. With its overhanging tile eaves and Spanish-baroque parapet, the roofline was strongly Mission, particularly when there still was a north tower to showcase more tile. Everything below that is Romanesque, but not busy; even today, the archtop ribbon windows against the smooth stucco wall looks clean and modern-ish. Few architects could blend these very different styles so successfully. “Masterpiece” might be going too far, but it’s truly damned impressive.

TOP: Drawing published 1906 (Mar. 4 Press Democrat)
MIDDLE: Drawing published 1909 (May 6 Republican)
BOTTOM: Circa 1935 postcard

The roof design evolved the most. Originally Willcox plopped a cupola on the north end to be the base for a flagpole. He did much the same in his convention center design, and those two 1906 drawings even show U.S. and state flags fluttering in the same way over the buildings. In the later NSGW drawing, the cupola became a steep pinnacle over columns suggesting a tower with turrets. The California motto, “EUREKA”, was now in framed relief as part of the wall. In the finished version, the pinnacle became squat and more conventional while the turrets became taller and heavier. If you isolated the profile of the northwest corner as shown in the 1935 postcard, it could be the bell tower of a nice Methodist church. Today the north tower is completely gone and as a result, you can’t look at the building from the other side of the street without thinking how strangely lopsided it seems.


On the south end of the roof, design changes were less dramatic. The parapet was simplified and lost its flagpole. Instead, there was a “brilliant electric star that burned on top of the turret outside,” according to the description below. Solomon’s Seal (not a Star of David; the NSGW wasn’t a Jewish group) remained unchanged through all the versions. On the second floor, the Palladian windows at either end of the building became single windows framed by engaged columns, which nicely complimented the entranceway.

With its large upstairs ballroom and banquet facilities, the hall was an immediate hit with the social set, accommodating parties too large – and maybe, too boisterous – for the Saturday Afternoon Clubhouse, which was about Santa Rosa’s only other venue for rent. If you danced before 1940, you danced here. Hardly a week went by in following decades without the papers announcing one or two doings down at Native Sons’ hall, and according to “Santa Rosa’s Architectural Heritage,” the Native Sons of the Golden West only sold the place after it was declared unsafe to continue hosting large gatherings.

Sadly, the only interior view we have shows just the lodge room (besides the large image below, the Sonoma County Library supposedly has a partial view taken from another angle, but the details don’t match). While Willcox went through multiple revisions of the exterior until he elegantly simplified the design, this photo shows a Beaux-Arts mess. Under a breathtaking stained glass skylight were walls smothered with fussy ornament, from swags to thick entablature to oversized corbels to ribbon molding over arches interrupted with band molding. There was an architrave in the arch behind the dais, although that’s the sort of detail you normally only find above the doorway of cathedrals.

In sum: It looked like a wedding cake where the baker kept larding on more layers of mascarpone decorations just to jack up the bill. Except for the skylight, maybe it’s not such a tragedy that the interior has been since remodeled to death and apparently retains no original details (some interior views are available via the leasing agent).

Even while Willcox was collecting Santa Rosa’s praise, he wasn’t collecting money from the City Council that he thought was his due. His lawyer threatened suit over $1,630: $1,000 for plans drawn up before the earthquake for the E street bridge, and $630 for a firehouse design. Whether he was paid or even had a legitimate case is unknown, but Empire Building architect John Galen Howard had also submitted plans for a new fire station, so Willcox probably had cause to believe the city was soliciting designs (the City Council decided to go on the cheap and just build a replica of the old 19th century building). As for the bridge, Willcox had already demanded $300 for the blueprints in 1907, which is probably why the Press Democrat dryly noted, “Mr. Willcox’s claims have been heard from before.”

Willcox probably didn’t work again in the North Bay (although he died twenty years later at the Veteran’s Home in Yountville), but the PD had another little item about him in 1909, noting that he had a commission to design the Elks Hall/office building in Stockton. That turned out to be a nice but undistinguished design in a restrained Beaux Arts style (picture here). He stayed active as an architect through at least part of the 1910s, but it’s unknown if he actually built anything after Stockton. If not, the Native Sons’ hall in Santa Rosa will stand as his last great work.

New Structure on Mendocino Street for Which the Plans Have Just Been Adopted

One of the finest structures to be built in Santa Rosa this year is the handsome Native Sons’ Hall which is to occupy a conspicuous lot within half a block of the Courthouse, on Mendocino street adjoining the Riley property. It will be a building worthy of the advancement and progress of the City of Roses and one that will be redound with credit to Santa Rosa Parlor of Native of Sons of the Golden West [sic], whose home it will be, and an attractive ornament to the city.

As stated in this paper the plans for the building were finally adopted at a meeting of the directors of the Santa Rosa Native Sons’ Hall Association  incorporated, and the accepted design is reproduced in the picture above.

Judge Emmet Seawell is the president of the Board of Directors of the Hall Association. The plans were accepted after very careful consideration, the object being to have a structure that would meet all requirements.

Santa Rosa Parlor has a large and growing membership and the securing of such a commodious and comfortable home, with the additional attraction of the social features that the possession of clubrooms will afford is sure to prove advantageous in an increase of membership. While the social and fraternal sides were considered it was also deemed advisable to see that the building should be made a good financial [illegible microfilm] has been given that it will be so.

The plans adopted call for a two story building, modified Mission style, with handsome entrance and wide stairway to the upper floor. The lower floor will be divided into four stores, 20 feet wide in the clear, with modern plate glass fronts and marble base. The upper floor will include the largest and handsomest lodge room in the city, commodious ante-rooms, handsome club rooms, large banquet hall, with kitchen, pantries, and all necessary conveniences. There will be a stage in the banquet room and a fine floor in the hall for dancing. The estimated cost of the building with the furnishings is $30,000. The plans accepted were those prepared by Architect William H. Willcox of this city.

– Press Democrat, March 4, 1906

NATIVE SONS GATHER IN MAGNIFICENT NEW HOME
Santa Rosa Parlor Officers Are Installed

Santa Rosa Parlor of the Native Sons of the Golden West took formal possession of their fine hall and clubrooms on Thursday night, and right proud are the members over the completion and acquisition of their handsome new home. They have a right to be. The City of Roses is also particularly pleased over the addition of such a noble structure to her newer and greater self.

Thursday night’s installation of the new officers of the Parlor in the new hall was the first regular meeting, for the previous meeting of the parlor held there, was a special one. There was a large gathering of the members present, and they entered heartily into the occasion and its attendant significance. The brilliant electric star that burned on top of the turret outside furnished a suggestion of the welcome inside, and the idea was admired by many who looked up at the lights and were informed of the importance of the gathering within.

Inside and outside the Native Sons’ building presents an attractive appearance. Many citizens have been privileged with an inspection of the building, and have come away expressing their admiration for it. The entrance, with its marble finish, broad stairs and clusters of lights, is very imposing, and a fitting introduction to the fine equipment of the building. The reception hall at the top of the stairs is very neat and right here it can be truthfully said that Architect William H. Willcox planned very cleverly in the arrangement of the building throughout, and is certainly entitled to congratulations. He is personally proud of the successful completion of his plans.

From the hall entrance is gained to the main lodge room, the clubrooms and the dance hall. The lodge room is a beauty. It presents a very attractive picture, particularly with the arch and and dome effects that have been carried out in its construction. The lighting, by stained glass skylight by day, and by a myriad of electric globes by night, is most effective.

The lodge room furnishing is also very tasteful. The mahogany furniture and chairs upholstered in Spanish leather. and the fine Brussels carpet on the floor add a finish that is very pleasing.

Mention has already been made of the dance hall. This will be a thing of beauty and a joy to devotees of the fascinating pastime for years to come. When all is completed and the bevelled mirrors adorn the walls and other artistic furnishings are seen in all their radiance there is no doubt of the popularity of the place for dances and parties. The orchestra will be stationed in the northeast corner of the room.

The same style of elegance that is noted in the other rooms applies to the clubrooms. There is a home-like appearance at once gives the rooms by the large fireplace and its African marble finish. In these rooms there will be billiard tables and other accessories for the pleasure of the members. The possession of this notable home should be the means of bringing into the fold of Santa Rosa Parlor all the available membership.

The banquet room must not be lost sight of, either. It is in the third story, and when fully equipped will be as nice a place for its purpose as could be found anywhere. Then there are the dressing rooms and the other offices, all complete in their details, and designed with the idea of comfort and convenience uppermost.

There is no doubt but that Santa Rosa has one of the finest homes the order has in the Golden West, and there are very few fraternal buildings of the kind to be found anywhere in the state that excell [sic] it.

[..]

– Press Democrat, February 26, 1909
Willcox’s Claims

Attorney G. W. Barlett of San Francisco sent a letter stating that W. H. Willcox, the architect, had referred to him his claim for $630 for plans which Willcox says he once furnished to the city for a fire department station, and $1,000 for plans for the E street bridge. The letter was referred to City Attorney Allison B. Ware for consideration. Mr. Willcox’s claims have been heard from before. Bartlett threatened a suit.

– City Council notes, Press Democrat, September 22, 1909

SANTA ROSA ARCHITECT WINS
Wm. H. Willcox’s Plans for Stockton Elks Hall are Accepted

The plans for the new $100,000 Elks hall and building in the city of Stockton prepared by William H. Willcox, the well known architect of this city, have been accepted and naturally Mr. Willcox and his friends here are very much pleased at the recognition given. Mr. Willcox has a fine record as an architect and has designed many large and important buildings in this and other states. The building in Stockton is to be a magnificent structure and will be modern and unique in many respects.

Mr. Willcox’s friends among the members of Santa Rosa Elks lodge are very much pleased over the fact that his plans have been accepted. Mr. Willcox is one of the “baby Elks” of Santa Rosa lodge, that is he was one of the last of the new members to be initiated.

– Press Democrat, February 1, 1909

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A DAY OF FIRES, A NOT-SO-HOT FIREHOUSE

Jeff Elliott Leave a comment

Santa Rosa took three years to replace the firehouse lost in the 1906 quake, and almost all expenses were spared. While the post office and courthouse were being fitted with marble, stained glass, mosaic flooring and other opulent features, the firemen were to make do with what could be built using the leftovers in the town’s construction fund.

What they got was a rebuild of the previous brick building that collapsed after it was swept by flames following the earthquake. There were some inconsequential differences. The upstairs quarters facing the street had five windows instead of three; there was a battery room to keep the alarm box system charged and a gym for “exercises in wet weather,” both rooms probably not found in the old building. But other than that, the new firehouse appears identical to its predecessor, down to the ironwork that decorated the corners of the two bays. The Press Democrat described the new building – as well as the fire fighting equipment – in two articles transcribed below, where you’ll also find the PD repeatedly calling the firefighters “fire laddies.” That was an antiquated nickname even then, and thankfully now almost forgotten (although ye might want to keep the phrase in mind for the next “Talk Like a Pirate Day,” arggh).

 
(TOP: The 1909 Santa Rosa Firehouse in two views. All buildings pictured in this article were located at at 508 Fifth Street, near B St. Both 1909 photos courtesy SRFD
MIDDLE: The pre-1906 earthquake Firehouse
BELOW: The temporary post-1906 earthquake Firehouse. Photo courtesy Sonoma County Library)

 

The new firehouse and the old firehouse – as well as the temporary shack erected after the earthquake – were all at 508 Fifth, near the intersection of B St. (Today it’s the parking lot behind Tex Wasabi’s.) But the new building didn’t have to be at that location, or be of such unimaginative Victorian-era design. The year before, respected architect John Galen Howard presented the city with plans for a state-of-the-art firehouse and adjacent City Hall that was intended to be built next to Courthouse Square. From the drawing that appeared in the newspapers, the design was in the same style as the nearby Empire Building which Howard also designed, but it wasn’t built apparently for reasons both financial and political. And sometime before that (probably 1907), esteemed architect William H. Willcox had also submitted a design, about which nothing is known. So for the next twenty years or more, the rebuilt old-fashioned building served as SRFD headquarters until a larger, modern firehouse was constructed at 415 A Street.

The “laddies” weren’t long in their new digs before they faced their greatest challenge since the earthquake: Three fires within hours, the worst of them spreading fast because of high winds. Before the day was over, two factories, three hotels, a winery, several homes and nearly two square blocks had been destroyed.

The fires began the morning of July 31, 1909 at the pasta factory on Sebastopol Avenue, and the building was lost by the time the Fire Department arrived. The company’s success became its ruin, as nearly three tons of macaroni was about to be shipped and the dry pasta burned well. “Santa Rosa Paste” had become a major source of pasta for San Francisco restaurants and grocers since the 1906 earthquake and fire.

A few hours later, the alarm sounded for the Santa Rosa Woolen Mills on West Sixth (now the large vacant lot west of the train station). Again firefighters found a factory beyond rescue thanks to a highly flammable inventory. But this fire was in the late afternoon, when the winds in the Santa Rosa Valley pick up and shift unpredictably. The firemen were now facing a potential disaster that could burn out of control and sweep the town.

The Press Democrat coverage is abridged below and is a stirring read:


The flames, seeming to mock the efforts of the fire-fighters, shot out over in the direction of the Santa Rosa Flour Mills, immediately opposite on the other side of the track. “Save the mills!” was the cry that was echoed from a thousand throats…Then the wind luckily swerved back on the hotel building and fears for the safety of the flour mills were at an end. In the meantime the fire from the woolen mills had jumped across the street and had caught the D. Cassassa property. The big frame winery, a cottage to the west, a two-story Japanese lodging house to the east, were all enveloped in flame and were burning furiously. Driven by the wind, the flames spread northward and were burning on both sides of Adams street. L. O. Battaglia’s hotel, a small two-story frame structure, and Mrs. Guidotti’s two cottages, just this side of the Toscano hotel, next caught fire. Here was where the battle royal was fought to prevent the further spread of the the flames, and keep them away from the hotel. It was as great a fight as was ever put up by a fire department in a suburban town.

Seemingly everyone in town turned out, and like during the aftermath of the 1906 earthquake, almost everyone helped fight the blaze. Ben Noonan and other automobile owners volunteered to carry equipment and firefighters. Passengers on the train to Ukiah got off and joined the efforts. “Men and boys worked like Trojans in the battle against the fire fiend,” the PD reported. “Drenched to the skin, Mayor James H. Gray, Dr. J. W. Jesse, Sheriff Smith, and the Councilmen, police [and] other officials, and citizens directed the auxiliaries and fought bravely.” It must have been particularly memorable to watch as “a corps of fighters led by Councilman Johnston attacked the flames successfully with sacks soaked with wine flowing from the tanks in the Cassassa cellar.”

Within two hours, the fire was mostly contained, although nearly every building on the first block of West 6th and 7th was destroyed or suffered damage. But while that fire was still raging, word arrived that there was yet another fire underway over in the “Ludwig’s addition” section of town (today, the site of the Highway 101/12 intersection). Some of the firemen raced to that scene to find again members of the community stepping up to bat, with a bucket brigade having the flames under control.

It was a day terrible and triumphant; the firefighters saved what could be saved, and no one was injured. Some of the firemen, certainly sore, smoky, and weary, stayed on watch that night to ensure that the ashes did not rekindle. Some went back to Fifth Street, where the horses were fed and watered and the equipment cleaned in preparation for the next emergency. Only then did the men crawl into their cots, having rescued the town from great disaster for the second time in three years. They must have slept soundly, there in the firehouse that Santa Rosa had built for them on the cheap.

THE FIRE LADDIES IN A NEW HOME
Department Moves Into Its New Quarters on Monday–Description of the Building

The Santa Rosa Fire Department is again housed at the fine, new building on the old site on Fifth street, the apparatus having been transferred there on Monday morning. During the day the alarm indicator was transferred and placed in position and the harness swung ready for immediate use. Later hay and feed for the horses was delivered and Monday night the men slept in the house for the first time.

The new fire engine house, constructed to replace the one destroyed the morning of April 18, 1906, is one of the finest and most modern in the state. It has been arranged with the view of making it comfortable and convenient for the men. On the ground floor is the big new electric switchboard, battery room and apparatus. Up stairs the men have roomy quarters in the rear of which is the store room for hay and grain for the horses.

The fire engine stands on the east side of the building with a horse on either side, while right in the rear of the engine is the hose cart with its horse’s stalls against the east side wall. The hook and ladder track stands along side of the fire engine on the west side of the building with the horse along side of the west wall. The reserve steamer stands back of the other apparatus in easy access in case of emergency.

The upper floor has not yet been put in shape but as the men have the time they will fix it up to suit their taste. There will be bedrooms for those who remain on duty continually and a lounging room. Provision  has been made for an exercise room as well as kitchen and dining quarters. These will be properly provided with all articles necessary so that the men can always have warm meals.

Just as soon as it is ready a manual repeater will be installed so that when a telephone message is received of a fire it can be turned in from the box nearest the fire at once and thus notify the call men. [illegible microfilm] convenience as at present the department is handicapped by phone calls for its service and there is no way to notify the outside men unless the brewery whistle is also blown after a call by phone.

– Press Democrat, January 19, 1909

 

THE SANTA ROSA FIRE DEPARTMENT
Something About the Fire Laddies and the Equipment in the Engine House on Fifth Street

Santa Rosa has one of the best equipped had nost efficient fire departments of any town of its size in the state. The department occupies fine quarters on Fifth street near B, where it is easy of access to the business section and can get to any part of the city with the least possible delay. The personnel of the department and its equipment is as follows:

Chief–Frank Muther.
Chief Engineer–James McReynolds.
Assistant Chief Engineer–Charles Bruckner.
Engine Driver–John Clawson.
Hook and Ladder Driver–Ed Elliott.
Hose Cart Driver–William Duncan.
Call Men–Harry Baker, Len Colgan, Charles Bowman, Fred Mead and A. J. Miller.
Equipment–Metropolitan fire engine, 600 gallons per minute capacity; hook and ladder truck carrying hooks, ladders, picks, axes, and four ten gallon chemicals; hose cart, carrying 1,000 feet of hose, extra nozzles, etc. Reserve–La France engine, capacity 400 gallons per minute;  extra hose cart with 1,000 feet of hose, and 1,400 feet extra hose.

Fire alarm system with nine miles of wire, 23 boxes and automatic alarm system in the engine house.

The two-story brick engine house is fully equipped for four horses and 12 men; and four fine horses weighing between 1200 and 1400 pounds each in the engine house and an extra one at the farm.

The engine house is equipped with every comfort and convenience for the fire laddies. There is a fine dormitory with cots for the men, a dining room with all the necessary dishes, kitchen with furnishings for preparing a meal and baths. There is also a large and commodious gymnasium room for exercises in wet weather.

In the rear of the building is a fine cemented floor machine shop for the use of the engineers so that they can do any small repair work necessary on the equipment from time to time as it is found necessary. The men are all interested in maintaining the department in a high state of efficiency and leave nothing undone to have everything in condition for emergencies.

Few if any cities of much larger size can boast of a better fire fighting force than is to be found here.

– Press Democrat, July 3, 1909

 

Old Fire Bell Rings.

The old fire bell that we were wont to hear before April 18, 1906 we hear again mingling in the din ushering in 1909. It called up old memories. Thorn Gate ascended the tower and with a sledge hammer smote the big bell and gave it tongue. It sounded all right, Thorn.

– Press Democrat, January 1, 1909

 

DISASTROUS FIRE IN SANTA ROSA SATURDAY NIGHT
SANTA ROSA WOOLEN MILLS IS TOTALLY DESTROYED
Cassassa’s Winery, Bettini and Battagia Hotels and Several Other Buildings Are Wiped Out
FANNED BY STRONG WIND THE FIRE BURNS FIERCELY
Heroic Fight Checks Fire at a Critical Time–Toscano’s Hotel is Seriously Damaged

The Fire Fiend dealt Santa Rosa a hard blow on Saturday. Following the destruction of the Santa Rosa Paste Factory at nine o’clock in the morning, came another and far more disastrous conflagration in the evening, which wiped out the Santa Rosa Woolen Mills, D. Cassassa’s winery, the Hotel Italia Unita, a Japanese hotel, Battaglia’s hotel, and several smaller habitations, and scorched and damaged the Toscano hotel and other buildings, and for two hours caused the greatest fire-fighting and excitement the city has seen since the memorable morning of the holacost of April 18, 1906.

It was exactly half past five o’clock Saturday evening when the steam siren at the Santa Rosa Cannery gave out a series of quick shrieks. These were followed a few moments later by the ringing of a general fire alarm. The Santa Rosa Woolen Mills, located nearly opposite the Northwestern Pacific Railroad depot, were afire. In a few seconds the entire upper story was a mass of flame. The tongues of fire, fanned by a strong wind, held angry revel, leaping here and there, sweeping the big building until it was one huge fiery furnace.

In a short time it was seen that the mills were doomed to destruction. The inflammable contents were just so much flimsy fuel to add to the fierceness of the blaze. The outbuildings and storerooms went with the main structure. It was a spectacular blaze. The flames shot out through every one of the scores of windows, and soon the crumbling walls alone marked the place where the big institution half an hor previously had stood.

Wind Drives Fire
The strong south west wind drove the huge masses of flame and fiery fragments clear across West Sixth street and Adams street. It was seen that the three-story hotel, Italia Unita, occupying the block between Adams street and the railroad, was in imminent danger. Smoke was noticed issuing from the roof. In five minutes the whole top of the structure was a mass of flames, and the wind was blowing almost a hurricane. It was readily seen that nothing could save the hotel property.

The flames, seeming to mock the efforts of the fire-fighters, shot out over in the direction of the Santa Rosa Flour Mills, immediately opposite on the other side of the track. “Save the mills!” was the cry that was echoed from a thousand throats. Two streams of water were poured on the building which was then so hot that the water boiled when it drenched the corrugated iron exterior. Once in a while a bit of fire would appear which was immediately checked by the watchers.

Wind Veers Again
Then the wind luckily swerved back on the hotel building and fears for the safety of the flour mills were at an end. In the meantime the fire from the woolen mills had jumped across the street and had caught the D. Cassassa property. The big frame winery, a cottage to the west, a two-story Japanese lodging house to the east, were all enveloped in flame and were burning furiously. Driven by the wind, the flames spread northward and were burning on both sides of Adams street. L. O. Battaglia’s hotel, a small two-story frame structure, and Mrs. Guidotti’s two cottages, just this side of the Toscano hotel, next caught fire. Here was where the battle royal was fought to prevent the further spread of the the flames, and keep them away from the hotel. It was as great a fight as was ever put up by a fire department in a suburban town. Had the fire once caught the hotel the flames would easily have jumped across Seventh street and caught residences and the big warehouse of the Merritt Fruit Company, and goodness knows how much worse damage would have been done.

On Fire Three Times
As it was the Toscano hotel, owned by Mrs. Guidotti, caught on fire three times, but the flames were happily checked. Everything was removed from the three-story structure. The building was drenched with water.

Heat Was Terrific
All this time the heat was terrific and this made it all the harder for the firemen and their scores of assistants. Men and boys worked like Trojans in the battle against the fire fiend. Fire Chief Frank Muther directed the efforts as general. Drenched to the skin, Mayor James H. Gray, Dr. J. W. Jesse, Sheriff Smith, and the Councilmen, police [and]  other officals, and citizens directed the auxiliaries and fought bravely. It was no time for standing idle. Men had to work might and main and pay no heed to any who held back and criticized on the outskirts of the crowd of thousands that gathered at the fire.

Tear Down Building
Directly adjoining the Hotel Unita on the railroad track was a wooden building that had been used as a bowling alley. Men tore this down and did a good job, for it helped to check the flames in that direction. It gave a better opportunity of getting at the seat of the fire.

The Toscano hotel stables caught fire two or three times, and a corps of fighters led by Councilman Johnston attacked the flames successfully with sacks soaked with wine flowing from the tanks in the Cassassa cellar.

Burns for Two Hours
For two hours the fire burned in the building mentioned. About half past seven o’clock the mastery had been gained and the danger had passed. It was midnight before the fire department left the scene. All this time water was poured on the smouldering embers, and a strict watch kept on property in the neighborhood.

[..]

Trains are Held
When the northbound Ukiah Express arrived at Santa Rosa the fire was at its height and its passage was blocked until after seven o’clock , owing to the fact that the hose was laid across the track and could not be moved. The train officials and the passengers took the delay good naturedly. They could not do otherwise. Quite a number of the passengers got in and helped fight the flames.

The railroad employees got hose and kept the freight warehouse roof and sides well soaked with water.

Ambulance in Readiness
The city ambulance was in readiness at the scene of the fire, and there were a number of doctors handy. A number of the fire-fighters were overcome with the heat and smoke at times, and many of them had their clothes burned and damaged. Several people received slight burns.

Some Accidents
Fire Chief Frank Muther hurt his leg. He fell down the stairs in the woolen mills. J. L. Roberts had his leg cut while kicking out a window at the mills.

Another Fire Alarm
While the big fire was in progress another alarm came from Ludwig’s addition, where the L. W. Carter cottage was in flames. Happily the fire was put out by a bucket brigade after a big hold had been burned in the roof. The cottage being located almost adjoining the paste factory premises destroyed by the morning fire, it is quite possible that a spark from the ruins may have caused the trouble.

Automobiles in Service
Ben Noonan put his auto to good use. He made several trips for coal and oil and other equipment from the engine house.

James Ramage also did good work with his machine, carrying firefighters to the Ludwig’s addition fire.

[..]

– Press Democrat, August 1, 1909

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MEET ME UNDER THE CEDARS OF THE LEBANON HOTEL

Jeff Elliott Leave a comment

What was the largest home built in Santa Rosa? It wasn’t Mableton, the McDonald mansion; the elephant in our living room was the Riley house at 426 Mendocino Avenue, with its stately house and gardens that filled most of the block between Fifth Street and (what’s now) Seventh Street.* At about 16,000 square feet, it was so big that when it was remodeled into a hotel there were thirty guest rooms.

 (TOP: The Mendocino Ave. entrance walkway to the Lebanon Hotel, c. 1908 
 MIDDLE: Tinted postcard, c. 1909 
 BELOW: The view from Riley street, c. 1935, when it was I.O.O.F. Lodge no. 53. Photo courtesy Sonoma County Library) 

 The size of the house was difficult to judge from the street because the building was secluded by mature trees, as footpaths wound around bushes and flower beds. A postcard was sold of the Weeping Lebanon Cedar, and photos from the early Twentieth Century of blooming cherry trees and roses can still be found. Whomever gardened these grounds had the greenest of thumbs (having a 600 sq. ft. greenhouse at the back of the property didn’t hurt, either).

It’s been guesstimated that the house was built in the 1870s, based upon its Second Empire style with mansard roof and elaborate dormer windows. But it’s also possible that this was an exterior remodel of an older and much simpler house. The 1876 Bird’s eye view of Santa Rosa – which is pretty reliable in showing approximate sizes and shapes of buildings – has a two-story house with about the same footprint in that location. The late 1870s was also an era when there was a fad for slapping a modern Victorian facade over simple, classic designs, and adding a mansard roof was a popular way to simultaneously update the look and gain another story. Many such examples can be found in the contemporary how-to book, “Old Homes Made New,” which has before-and-after drawings – although most of the “improved” homes look like they were designed for the Munsters.

We also don’t know who first owned the house (someone with title search skills could probably answer that), but the 1880 census shows an extended family of eight living there with two servants. At home were Mr. and Mrs. Riley and their two children as well as Mrs. Riley’s parents and their two other children. This was probably a confusing family to meet for the first time; Mr. Riley was older than his mother-in-law by about three years, and Mrs. Riley was young enough to be his daughter by a quarter century.

The in-laws were Alonzo and America Thomas, he being a lawyer who moved to Santa Rosa during the Civil War. Alonzo wasn’t in the house very long before he died in late 1880 after a  prolonged illness. America Lillard Thomas lived until she was 77 and was one of the sad footnotes to the 1906 earthquake. She died at her home about ten weeks after the disaster, from “general disability following general neurosis caused by shock.”

Mr. Riley was Amos W. Riley, a businessman of great success. He and his partner founded a chain of mercantile stores from Sonoma to Humboldt counties, then concentrated on raising livestock with large ranches in Nevada and Oregon. Amos Riley died in 1908 at age 83 and like everyone else mentioned here, is buried at the Rural Cemetery.

After the earthquake and the death of mother-in-law America, Amos moved in with his daughter, a block away at 565 Mendocino Av (currently a parking lot), and the Riley family leased their old home to developers who remodeled it into the Hotel Lebanon. The public had its first chance to get an eyeful of the gardens – which, I suspect, had been created and always under the care of the late America Thomas – and it’s easy to imagine that the beautiful, fragrant hideaways immediately became a favorite haven of young people in love.

Then came 1909, when we find Ernest Finley, editor of the Press Democrat and president of the Chamber of Commerce, doing backflips of joy over the proposal that the old house could become the town’s city hall and the beautiful grounds be declared Santa Rosa’s first public park.

In the first decade of the Twentieth Century, Santa Rosa was a place where grand ambitions rose and just as quickly died, mostly because of a lack of political will to raise money to pay for public improvements. New post-quake federal and county buildings (the post office and courthouse) were in the finishing stages in 1909, but there was no city building even planned. An architect-designed city hall and firehouse was abandoned because the local banks didn’t want to loan money to the city. Plans for a city water park were thrown out after the quake, and the current mayor didn’t even try to make good on election promises to transform the tenderloin district into a park that families could enjoy.

The Press Democrat backed the idea of buying the Riley property enthusiastically, given that it would provide an instant solution to both park and city hall needs. Acknowledging that a 30-room joint complete with dining hall might be a trifle too roomy for the administrators of a small farm town, the PD mused that the mansion could be later torn down or moved and a smaller office built on the corner of the property. The paper was so gung-ho on the concept that it did something unusual: It reprinted a condensed version of a story that had appeared the previous week, this time accompanied by the photo at top that filled a third of the page.

And predictably, the grand ambition fizzled. No bond measure was placed before the voters.

After its time as a family home and hotel/restaurant, a third act awaited the grand old place. The Odd Fellows Lodge no. 53 bought the building in 1920 and remained there until 1955, when its new building was dedicated on Pacific Avenue. The Lodge has a few exterior photographs from its tenure, but alas, no interior pictures are known to exist.

As the Riley Mansion began in mystery, so it ended; the year of its demolition is not known. Farewell, majestic old manse; too bad we didn’t at least have the decency to save the trees, which can live for more than a thousand years.

* The 1967 Seventh Street Realignment Project merged the old 7th street (west of Mendocino Av.) with Johnson St. (east of Mendocino Avenue). A couple of odd twists and turns were added where no road had existed previously to make everything connect. properly, and the Johnson name was abandoned.



RILEY PROPERTY FOR CITY HALL AND PUBLIC PARK
Citizens Discussing an Interesting Project Now

The acquisition by Santa Rosa of the beautiful grounds about the Hotel Lebanon on Mendocino avenue for a public park. together with the big building, which could be used as a City Hall, has been a subject of discussion on the part of a number of citizens, particularly since it was learned that the property could be purchased for the same figure as that contemplated in the bond issue for the erection of a municipal building, $40,000.

For a long time the acquiring of a park for the City of Roses has been the fond dream of the Woman’s Improvement Club and advocated by scores of the men of the city as well. Already the suggestion made for the purchase by the city of the Hotel Lebanon property, owned by the estate of the late A. W. Riley, for the purposes mentioned, has enthusiastic supporters, and now that the Press Democrat gives it publicity it is expected that the plan will be discussed freely.

For years the Riley property, with the spacious residence and picturesque surroundings, has been one of the show places of Santa Rosa, and in times past it has often been coveted for park purposes. In the grounds are trees and shrubs gathered from many climes, and when the family vacated the place and after the big disaster it became the “Hotel Lebanon,” it was so named from the beautiful Cedar of Lebanon which was brought from the Holy Land many years ago and planted in front of the mansion where it has grown and developed ever since.

Recently several thousand dollars was spent on the building prior to its reopening and for some time to come it could be used for municipal purposes, there being many spacious rooms available for meeting places and offices. Later on, it is suggested, the building could be sold, and a city hall built, either back against the Native Sons’ building, or else in the center of the park.

Another important consideration in the connection with the purchase of the Riley place for a public park is that it is centrally and ideally located and the park is already there–the grounds are laid out and the trees, shrubs, and flowers are already growing luxuriantly.

– Press Democrat, July 23, 1909
LEBANON WILL CLOSE

The hotel Lebanon will close its doors at the end of July, and its manager, B. C. Cosgrove, will retire temporarily from business. This is being done on account of the state of his health. All the furniture and fixtures are for sale.

The Lebanon was built by the late A. W. Riley and occupied by him and his family for many years as a private residence. After the fire of 1906 it was made a hotel and for a considerable time it was the only hostelry in Santa Rosa and had a big run. When Mr. Cosgrove too charge he had it completely renovated and made many changes in its arrangement.

The hotel is situatied almost in the business section of the city and the garden and grounds surrounding it are hardly equaled in this section. It has been equipped more for a tourist than a commercial hotel.

– Santa Rosa Republican, July 15, 1909

CITIZENS DISCUSS THE PUBLIC PARK PROJECT
Many Want to See the Plan Carried Out

The publicity given the project to buy the Hotel Lebanon and grounds for a public park in the Press Democrat on Thursday morning excited much interest and the matter was much discussed pro and con during the day. It was expected that the suggestion would give rise to considerable talk. To many people it was a hearing of the matter for the first time; others had hoped that just such a plan as put forward would some day become a realization.

Citizens Interviewed

Thursday a Press Democrat representative interviewed a number of well know citizens on the subject and found that a majority looked with favor on the scheme. Others desired a little more time for consideration. Still others favored the acquisition of the beautiful grounds as a park but opposed the use of the building as a city hall. In regard to the latter idea it was not the intention of the citizens who first suggested the purchase of the property by the city that the building should be a permanent City Hall, the plan being that it could be used temporarily.

Would Move Building

“By all means I am in favor of the city purchasing the Hotel Lebanon property for a public park; lets have it all park, however, and sell the building and move it away,” was the reply of one citizen asked for an expression.

“It is a splendid idea,” said another. “I think that the bonds would be more likely to carry for the purchase of the Riley property for a park than for the erection of a city hall on the old lot,” he added.

“I read about the plan this morning, but I must have a little more time to look into the matter. O, yes, of course Santa Rosa wants a park, we all admit that.”

There are a few of the replies to queries put by the interviewer to men of affairs in Santa Rosa.

Ladies Are Interviewed

A number of women were also seen. They are all in favor of a park and for several years the securing of a park has been the fond hope of the Woman’s Improvement Club. There is no doubt that the entire club membership will endorse the suggested acquisition of the Riley property.

Then, of course, among the number discussing the matter Thursday were men who did not see the wisdom of taking a hasty step in the matter. Then there were those, you could count them on your fingers, happily, who raised their voice in protest against the idea of a park or city hall at all, men who are nearly always in the front rank of the “knockers” and to whom a city’s progress means naught.

But the concensus [sic] of opinion gained Thursday is heartily in favor of the public park, particularly such an ideal place as can now be secured in the purchase of the Riley property. Many people passing along Mendocino avenue Thursday stopped to look and admire and talk about the delights of the trees and shrubs, the lawns and walks. Others brought visitors to the place to show them. It was a day of additional admiration for the beautiful place on Mendocino avenue which public spirited citizens suggest should be acquired by Santa Rosa as a public park and city hall.

Director Alfred Trembley of the Santa Rosa Chamber of Commerce was very enthusiastic over the project. “I consider it a fine thing and it would undoubtedly make a beautiful park. Later on if the city desired, it could build a city hall adjoining the Native Sons building, or else in the center of the park.”

Professor A. C. McMeans said: “I like the idea of purchasing the Riley place for a park. I was very much in doubt if I would vote bonds for a city hall on the other site, but I would vote for this project.”

– Press Democrat, July 23, 1909

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