1906 EARTHQUAKE: STILL IN BUSINESS, NEW LOCATION

The 1906 earthquake may have created headaches for downtown Santa Rosa merchants, but it also was a profitable time to be a newspaper publisher, such was the great demand for advertising. Displaced stores needed to let customers know where to find them, or when they would reopen – and that included saloons; probably never before in Santa Rosa’s history did so many liquor stores and bars have to advertise the whereabouts of booze.

There was little news in the newspaper except for the front page, and the bottom part of that always had a large display ad or two. Inside the four-page papers were more display ads, want ads, and notices. Brooks Clothing Co. had reopened near the old post office (“Look for the store with the yellow front”) and the White House department store was moving to their new location at B and 5th next week. Pedersen’s offered a “full line of earthquake proof furniture, carpets and linoleums” from his home at 328 Second Street. W. E. Nichols, contractor and builder, wanted to let you know that he was “open to any kind of legitimate business proposition.”

A few ads played with quake humor. The Santa Rosa Poultry Association was “Shaken Up and Still Moving,” paying spot cash for eggs; Price and Silvershield’s real estate and insurance office wanted you to know that they were “Slightly Disfigured But Still in the Ring;” the Hahman pharmacy at 504 Mendocino St. vowed their motto was to “Stick to Santa Rosa.” A paint and wallpaper store declared, “We Were Bent But Not Broke,” and hopefully they were better at painting and wallpapering than they was at grammar (at the bottom of their ad was the odd yet earnest tag, “Yours truly, Wilson Bros”).

Fourth Street, looking west at the courthouse from the D Street intersection. Detail of photograph courtesy California Historical Society

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1906 EARTHQUAKE: FORWARD INTO THE PAST

There’s no disputing that the 1906 earthquake changed Santa Rosa forever, and it’s easy to offer a glib generalization that the disaster hurled the town into the Twentieth Century. I’ve certainly suggested that here in a few posts. But I’ve come to realize the truth is the opposite – that the earthquake thwarted meaningful progress, and entrenched Santa Rosa in its 19th Century ways.

Santa Rosa certainly looked more cosmopolitan a few years afterwards. The fires swept away the jumble of 19th century buildings that gave the downtown a “Wild West” appearance, with most stores having ornate Victorian cast-iron façades and hitching posts at the curb. In their place rose steel-framed buildings in the Louis Sullivan style – practical, sturdy, and mostly plain. In pre-earthquake photos, downtown could have been Main Street, Dodge City; in newer pictures, it was Commerce Boulevard, Modernburg USA.

Looks deceive; these were just new buildings in the same old town. There were no infrastructure changes in the disaster’s wake. The Civil War-era layout of the streets was unchanged; the water system remained perpetually on the brink of collapse; Santa Rosa still didn’t have a single public-owned park (unless you count the cemetery) and the blight of 1st Street – ramshackle sheds and barns blocking access to the creek and a redlight district that stretched over two blocks – was left alone.

It didn’t have to turn out this way. Living here at the time was William H. Willcox , a renowned architect who intended to build an auditorium large enough to host state or even national events. Willcox also proposed a design for an expansive water park along the creek. But once the quake hit, nothing more was mentioned in the newspapers about either project; Santa Rosa was focused on quickly rebuilding what was, not taking a little time to think about what it should be.

Santa Rosa’s fatal flaw in the early 20th century (and still today, I’ll opine) was that it had grand ambitions and a terrible lack of foresight. “Build a better and greater Santa Rosa,” the City Council proclaimed right after the earthquake, just as there was a mandate the year before for the population to double by 1910. Both messages shared the same underlying notion: Build, build, build, as fast as you can. Planning may be okay for lesser towns, but we’re in a hurry to grow big quickly, and if we just have more buildings and a bunch of new people, the place will be transformed into a majestic city. Somehow.

Also curbing progress after the earthquake was the dearth of investigative journalism to shine a light on the town’s problems. This was the Golden Age of muckraking, and probably every metropolitan area in America had at least one newspaper scratching away at corruption, ineptitude, and graft. For a year-and-a-half before the disaster, the Republican newspaper was leased to a pair of out-of-town firebrands who weren’t afraid to peer under Santa Rosa’s dirty rocks. They exposed that this became a “wide open town” whenever horses were running at the track, with Fourth Street turned into something like a lawless miner’s camp – and that it was a problem that apparently had been an open secret for decades. Then just a couple of weeks before the quake, they further charged that city leaders were in cahoots with a “scheming coterie of gentlemen who manage to protect their private interests by the conduct of the city government through the present administration.” If they had kept up the call for reform, it’s likely that Santa Rosa would have followed San Francisco’s lead in holding Grand Jury hearings concerning the town’s political elite. But after publishing a single edition the afternoon of the earthquake, the reform-minded team apparently left town, and the Republican lapsed a week later to the control of mild-mannered owner and former editor Alan Lemmon.

The “Democrat-Republican” that spanned about two weeks was a joint effort in name only – it was clearly the creation of Press Democrat editor Ernest L. Finley, always the uncritical booster of Santa Rosa’s business interests. After a premiere editorial calling for citizens to stand “shoulder to shoulder” in egalitarian spirit, the following issues used the precious little space available to mainly push for widening downtown streets, with the apparent hope of the town someday having a San Francisco-sized streetcar system to serve that coming city of majesty that would sprawl over the entire Santa Rosa Plain.

The one saving feature of the situation is that “we are all in the same boat.” As a result of the complete destruction of the city’s business interests, no man has any advantage over his neighbor. To put it frankly, we are all broke, and the moment anybody asks us to liquidate “the jig is up.” It is only by standing shoulder to shoulder for the rehabilitation of Santa Rosa, and showing our faith in the future and confidence in each other, that the great problem which now confronts this community can possibly be worked out. We will all pay when we can.
– Democrat-Republican, April 21

Sonoma County will have to build a new courthouse, and the county will have to be bonded for the purpose. While we are about it, we might as well build it right. A modern, up-to-date structure is the only thing that will fit the bill.

Property in Santa Rosa will soon be at a premium, and worth more than ever before, because Santa Rosa is going to be a better and more prosperous town than it has ever been.

One of the first things the City Council should attend to is the establishment of the new street lines. All the business streets should and must be widened, and now is the time to do it.

– Democrat-Republican, April 23

For a long time it has been generally recognized that the majority of Santa Rosa’s business streets were too narrow, and now that the opportunity for widening them has arrived it must be embraced. It will only be a few years until electric cars are occupying all our principal streets, and in addition to this the ordinary demands of business must be considered. Third, Fourth, Fifth, A, B, Main, Mendocino and D streets can now be improved in the respect noted without difficulty and practically without cost, and the authorities should see to it that the lines are set back before any of the foundations of the new buildings talked of are laid. We have it in our power to make Santa Rosa one of the finest and most attractive little cities in the whole country, and we will be playing false to our own best interests if we fail to do so.
– Democrat-Republican, April 30

“First meeting of the Board of Supervisors and County Commissioners after the Earthquake” on April 23, five days after the disaster. According to the Democrat-Republican, little was done at the meeting except ordering cleanup of wreckage at the courthouse, seen to the left. Note that everyone wearing a hat has an access pass in the hatband.

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1906 EARTHQUAKE: THE LONG CLEANUP

In the days after the 1906 earthquake, bricks were everywhere in downtown Santa Rosa; it was as if the skies had rained brick, or maybe every brick building in town had popped like giant brick-filled balloons. It was going to be a mess to clean up.

Work crews shovel debris on a wrecking train flatcar at the corner of Fourth St. and D Street. The church in the background is the Methodist church that was the headquarters of relief efforts in the days after the earthquake. Detail of image courtesy Larry Lapeere
Work crews shovel debris on a wrecking train flatcar at the corner of Fourth St. and D Street. The church in the background is the Methodist church that was the headquarters of relief efforts in the days after the earthquake. Detail of image courtesy Larry Lapeere

The town was fortunate that it had its electric streetcar system. Installed just a year before, the Petaluma and Santa Rosa Railway was able to efficiently haul debris directly from the brick pile that was Fourth St. away to the countryside. A photograph owned by the Western Sonoma County Historical Society shows an engine pushing a string of flatcars loaded with rubble heading south through Sebastopol; if you’re looking for artifacts from 19th century Santa Rosa, search the old track beds along the routes to Petaluma and points west. An item in the May 19, 1906 Press Democrat states “many car loads” of debris and brick were being used as fill under the E Street bridge.

Everyone pitched in to help, at first. As Tom Gregory lyrically wrote in his 1911 county history:

…[E]verybody worked – even “father.” Labor and its logical supply were inexhaustible. All hands, virtually, were out of a job, and broke. It was more practical and more philosophical to shovel brickbats and ashes on to a platform car, than to stand around sadly contemplating the ruins of office and shop. The storekeeper with no store to keep kept his song blistered dragging metal beams, plates and gaspipes out of piles of wreckage. Machinists with no machine in sight except the engine that was hauling the dirt-train, picked and shoveled to the manner born. Youthful attorneys with no cases before the court until the insurance companies began to “welch” on the fire losses, took a summer-school course in railroad construction and the method of filling in grade-cuts with train-loads of debris from burnt cities. Manual labor was the only recognized profession, and by this Santa Rosa was preparing to rise phoenix-like to another life. But in that day of gloom there was heard no complaint. There was no responsive audience for a complaint.

Without diminishing the spirit of volunteerism, it should be noted that among the workers was a squad of sailors with officers that came from Mare Island, and California Northwestern sent a wrecking crew with two gangs of railroad workers. In a little over two weeks the relief fund also paid $3,000 to those searching for victims or shoveling debris, and it was announced on May 4 that labor was now compulsory for any able-bodied male who expected free provisions from the banks of donated food.

But like the rebuilding, the work started quickly and with great enthusiasm yet took forever to finish. it was months before the collapsed courthouse building – the very icon of Santa Rosa in ruins – was even cleared away, and a full year after the earthquake, much rubble of the Grand Hotel at the prominent corner of Main and 3rd still remained.

Cleaning Resumed

The work of cleaning the debris from Fourth street was resumed with renewed vigor ths morning after the holiday of Wednesday [Memorial Day]. A number of men were busily engaged in loading flat cars and an electric motor was on hand to haul off the cars when they were loaded. It is believed that in a few days the debris will be all cleared from the principal thoroughfare of the city. Many property owners along that street are preparing to build in the near future, and it will soon be the scene of unprecedented activity.

– Santa Rosa Republican, May 31, 1906

(ABOVE: Work crews shovel debris on a wrecking train flatcar near the intersection of Fourth and A Street. The courthouse is seen in the distance)

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